Sunday, September 13, 2015

The Chapelle Expiatoire: A Commemorative Monument

The Chapelle Expiatoire (Expiatory Chapel) was built in the early 19th century by King Louis XVIII in honor of his brother, Louis XVI and his queen,  Marie-Antoinette, who had been buried in a mass grave in the Église de la Madeleine Cemetery in 1793. During the Reign of Terror, this cemetery was the burial place of those executed between 1792 and 1794. The remains of the royals were exhumed in January of 1815 and reinterred in the Basilique Saint-Denis. 

There is speculation on whether or not the bones taken to Saint-Denis were really those of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette. Both Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were buried in coffins, unlike the other victims of the guillotine, so the true believers feel sure the remains were authentic. In addition, the writer Chateaubriand attended the exhumations and said, “Amidst the bones, I recognized the Queen’s head from the smile she had given me in Versailles.”  Louis XVIII also searched for his sister Élisabeth, but to no avail. 


Square Louis XVI marker

The garden has replaced the former Madeleine cemetery, where Manon Roland, a member of the Girondin political party, was buried, guillotined on November 8.* The Expiatory Chapel was built by Louis XVIII to memorialize the place where the remains of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette resided until they were reburied in the basilica of Saint- Denis.
(*The odd date on the marker, le 18 brumaire An II, was because revolutionaries renamed months and also counted years beginning with the first year of the French Republic, 1792.)
The person named on the park marker was Manon Roland (1754 – 1793.) She was, together with her husband, Jean-Marie Roland, a supporter of the French Revolution and influential member of the Girondist faction. She fell out of favor with the radical new government during the Reign of Terror because she and her husband failed to support the increasingly violent measures for exercising political control following the French Revolution. She died on the guillotine.


The small park which surrounds the Chapelle Expiatoire is planted with white flowering shrubs and perennials, including roses, viburnum and lilacs. The flowers grow beneath horse chestnuts, sycamores, cherries, maples, hawthorns, and clipped yews  There are also lots of benches and a small toddlers’ playground.



The complex consists of  two buildings separated by a courtyard. The chapel itself cannot be fully seen from the entrance on Rue Pasquier because it is surrounded by an open colonnade. These arched side galleries isolate the chapel from the outside world, giving the impression of a peaceful burial place.


The little park around the Chapelle Expiatoire is traditionally planted with white flowers, in memory of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette.


The Expiatory Chapel was built on the place where King Louis XVI and Queen Marie- Antoinette remained for 21 years.


The façade is a bare wall with a monumental door. It is topped by a replica of a huge sarcophagus with pediment (triangular section under the roof.) The inscription above the door reads:

King Louis XVIII raised this monument to consecrate the place where the mortal remains of King Louis XVI and Queen Marie-Antoinette, transferred on 21 January 1815 to the royal tomb of Saint-Denis, reposed for 21 years. It was finished during the second year of the reign of Charles X, year of grace 1826.


You go in through the stark exterior façade of the entrance building and go up a flight of steps that leads from the vestibule to the inner garden of the courtyard.


The chapel

The chapel itself is entered through a portico with Doric columns topped by a pediment.  The architecture of the chapel is neoclassical, or "new" classical architecture, which describes buildings inspired by the architecture of ancient Greece and Rome. 


The Campo Santo (Cemetery, literally holy ground)

A view of hallowed ground from the chapel back toward the entrance building. In this raised garden are the remains from the former revolutionary mass graveyard. The remains of 3,000 people who died during the French Revolution are buried here.


Symbolic gravestones of the Swiss Guard

On August 10, 1792, more than three hundred Swiss Guards were slaughtered while making a heroic stand to protect the Tuileries Palace from attack. When the revolutionaries called on the Swiss Guard to surrender, “We should think ourselves dishonored!" was the reply. “We are Swiss, the Swiss do not part with their arms but with their lives. We think that we do not merit such an insult. If the regiment is no longer wanted, let it be legally discharged. But we will not leave our post, nor will we let our arms be taken from us.” Out of the nine hundred, only three hundred survived. Their stand against superior numbers allowed the King and Queen to escape capture, at least for the moment. The bodies of the guards were buried in this cemetery, of what was to become the grounds of Chapelle Expiatoire.


The nine arches of the colonnade on each side of the inner garden hold the symbolic gravestones of the Swiss guards who died trying to protect the king when he was under siege at the Tuileries in 1792. 


Atop the peak of each memorial is a winged hourglass, indicating the fleetness of life or mortality. The décor on the v-shaped lintel includes poppy heads (eternal life) with cypress and oak branches to indicate that the victims of the Revolution came from all classes of society


The main cupola of the chapel

The chapel itself is in the form of a Greek cross, with arms of equal length. There is a main dome at the center of the chapel and three half-domes with circular openings which allow natural light to enter the chapel. 


The altar below the dome


The altar flanked by candelabra

The gilt bronze candelabras in the recesses were done by the sculptor for the king,  Jean- Baptiste-Louis Plantar, and by the caster,  Auguste-Maximilien Delafontaine, whose bronze factory produced high quality decorative works of art.


A candelabra above the portrait of Marie-Antoinette


The sculpture of Marie-Antoinette below the dome


The inscription on the base of the sculpture is the last letter written to the sister of Louis XVI, Madame Élizabeth, who was also guillotined in 1794, just for being his sister. 
To the left of this sculpture are stairs going down to the crypt.


The white marble sculpture of the queen, Supported by Religion by Jean-Pierre Cortot, shows Marie-Antoinette kneeling in front of “Religion,” into whose hands she puts herself. Both this sculpture and that of Louis XVI were meant to convey the idea that the king and queen had received Christian mercy and forgiven their enemies, beliefs promoting national conciliation. 


The candelabra above the picture of Louis XVI


The sculpture of Louis XVI below the dome


The sculpture with inscription

The will of Louis XVI is written on the black marble plaque on the pedestal of the statue.
Just to the right of the sculpture, you can see the top of the railing for the steps down to the crypt.


King Louis XVI, Called to Immortality by an Angel, by Francois Joseph Bosio
The white marble sculpture of the king in coronation robes shows Louis XVI supported by an angel. The angel points to heaven, signaling the king’s salvation. 


The crypt is accessible by stairs on either side of the chapel. It contains a black and white marble altar in the form of an ancient tomb. It is intended to mark the place where the royal remains were found.


The outer corridor of arched side galleries


The open colonnade with a view of the Swiss guards’ cenotaphs from the outside


The open colonnade with a view toward the inner garden

Thursday, September 3, 2015

Jean Paul Gaultier Fashion Retrospective 2015

An enfant terrible means literally, “terrible child.” An enfant terrible in less literal terms refers to a young and successful person who is sometimes shocking and does things in a way that is very different from normal. The enfant terrible of fashion, as Jean Paul Gaultier was nicknamed by the press when he first began his career in the 1970s, refers to the boldness and inventiveness of his avant-garde fashion.  

The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk was an exhibition of Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture and prêt-à-porter ensembles designed between 1970 and 2013. The exhibition was organized by the Musée des beaux-arts de Montreal and the Réunion des musées nationaux-Grand Palais in collaboration with the Maison Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris. Before reaching Paris, its tenth stop on an international tour, the exhibition was seen in Montreal, Dallas, San Francisco, Madrid, Rotterdam, Stockholm, Brooklyn, London and Australia. 


An entrance to the Grand Palais for the Jean Paul Gaultier fashion retrospective


One of two quadrigas (a chariot drawn by 4 horses) mounted above the Grand Palais. This quadriga, on the Champs-Elysées side, is titled “Immortality Outstripping Time” by Georges Récipon. The Grand Palais was built for the 1900 Universal Exposition (World’s Fair) and continues to be the premier venue for world-class exhibitions in Paris.


Charles de Gaulle 

In 2000, thirty years after his death, De Gaulle was immortalized by a monumental bronze statue across from the Grand Palais, and close-by the Métro Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. The striding pose of the statue, standing 25 feet above the Champs-Elysées,  recalls the general marching down the Champs-Elysées and leading French troops into Paris after the German retreat. The words inscribed on the base of the statue are, “Paris outraged, Paris crushed, Paris martyred, but Paris liberated”

In the exhibit, which ran from April 1 to August 3, 2015, in the Grand Palais in Paris, there were more than 300 ready-to-wear and haute couture pieces displayed by theme. It took 100 people working for 2 years to mount this exhibit, using 182 mannequins.Each of the seven galleries of Gaultier’s fashions had a different theme. 

THE ODYSSEY

After an introductory exhibit, “The Odyssey” gallery dealt with fashions related to recurring figures in Jean Paul Gaultier’s collections, that of the sailor and the siren. In keeping with the maritime theme, the only lighting in the whole gallery was a striking blue, which gave the room a surrealistic quality. For the first time in an exhibition, mannequins (30 of them) had animated faces, made possible by innovative technology.


In Gaultier’s own words: “I have always loved the graphic, architectural appearance of stripes. My mother used to dress me in marine sweaters, as they go with everything.”


A sailor-striped sweater silk knit gown extending into a skirt with ostrich feathers arranged in stripes



The “Bal de Sirenes” gown from the “Mermaids” collection 

A siren is a woman whose singing lured unwary sailors onto rocks, and in this photo, the siren’s eyes are closed.


Siren, eyes open 

At first, I couldn’t decide if this was a real person or a mannequin. Her face was not a typical mannequin’s face, and her positioning was very lifelike.


A mermaid-inspired gown 


A handicapped siren of the sea with one of Gaultier’s cone bras


A jump suit done in gold fish scales


The mannequin in the middle has on a white lace design combining a halo and mask similar to bondage-wear. Kylie Minogue, an Australian pop singer, wore this design during her worldwide tour.


A close-up of the mask and halo


Sirens of the sea

PUNK CANCAN

The next gallery was “Punk Cancan.” Gaultier’s fashions combined Parisian elegance with the mixture of British tradition and avant-garde non-conformism. The mannequins were mounted on a long, narrow moving platform, so viewers saw them as if they were on a runway or catwalk. Along one side of the runway were fashionable ladies viewing the runway show, and on the other side of the platform were the British-influenced punk designs.


Eiffel Tower gown


Pink dress with black net coat. Very wearable for any fashionista 


Cancan front


Surprise, cancan back


Parisian street walker chic


In 1985 Gaultier introduced man-skirts and promoted their use, especially kilts in men's wardrobe. 


A tuxedo with a man-skirt


Half tuxedo, half cancan


Watchers admiring fashions on the catwalk


I wish I could wear this gown--if only I had some place to wear it! 


A punk-inspired gown


The redingote


Punk kilts

MUSES

In the “Muses” gallery, Gaultier’s fashions illustrate his attraction to unconventional beauties, no matter the build, skin color, age, gender or sexual orientation.


 One of Gaultier’s multi-ethnic fashions


A man’s redingote over vinyl trousers with top hat 


Gaultier produced sculptured costumes for Madonna  during the nineties, starting with her infamous cone bra for her 1990 Blond Ambition World Tour. 


Gaultier on Madonna: “Madonna represents the essence of the American dream, American professionalism, American perfection, American obsession, and American business ambition. But she’s open to the whole world.”


The exhibit continued up the steps to the next floor. 


“Muses” continued on the next floor


A redingote outfit

SALON

As a little boy, Gaultier’s maternal grandmother introduced him at a very young age to women’s fashion. He was fascinated by the old-fashioned charm of corsets. Brought up by strong women, Gaultier does not subscribe to the myth of the weaker sex. He  reinterprets corsets, in earlier times symbols of the incarcerated female body, as an emblem of women’s liberation and sexual power.



A corset gown


A corset torso with tulle bell bottoms


In the middle of the photo is a bustier-style dress made of grass that is woven to resemble feathers. (These corsets revolved.)


A corset gown with train tacked to the wall


A demure corset dress

This looks like it was designed for one of Gaultier's muses, Marion Cotillard, but that is only my guess.

METROPOLIS

In the “Metropolis” gallery, the world of futuristic fashion meets entertainment fields--film, television, music and dance. Gautier created many costumes for films, contemporary dance companies and international pop stars such as Boy George, Tina Turner and Lady Gaga. 


Futuristic fashion on a flashy background


The mannequin has on a bodysuit and long tutu of flesh-colored, pleated tulle.


A traveling outfit with newsboy cap, embroidered torso and pleated bell bottom trousers


Futuristic costumes on a shiny background


A short bolero jacket adorned with parrot plumes over a black body suit

URBAN JUNGLE

The “Urban Jungle” was the last gallery of the exhibition. Gautier created fashion hybrids, halfway between the urban and the wild, between tradition and modernity, between the crude and the refined. Gaultier’s superbly crafted and detailed garments are inspired by the beauty and diversity of global cultures.


The third gown from the left is haute couture “Camouflage” with khaki, cinnamon and papaya tulle ruffles 


Gaultier used nontraditional  fabrics and juxtaposed elements of different fashion trends. 


An ethnic mix of fashions


A leopard-lined evening gown


An Indian-influenced wedding gown


The groom’s gauzy wedding wear


Jean Paul Gaultier

By the end of the show, I was on sensory overload--the glitz and glamour as well as the sheer number of Gaultier’s fashions had become overwhelming. Nevertheless, I thought it was a fantastic exhibition of  a fearless and unconventional fashion designer; furthermore, I felt that I knew a little bit about the man from the way he expressed himself in fashion.