Thursday, September 6, 2018

PARC DE LA VILLETTE

The Parc de La Villette is a 125-acre park located in the 19th arrondissement at the northeastern edge of Paris. It was built from 1984-87  and involved the design and construction of museums, theaters, promenades, covered walkways, landscaped gardens, and architectural “follies.” The Parc de la Villette is always open, and admission is free.


Follies


A folly is a decorative or ornamental building meant to enhance a garden. In Parc de la Villette, 26 follies are placed within the park on an imaginary grid that has them evenly distributed throughout the park. They are supposed to help visitors gain a sense of direction and navigate throughout the space.



Folie Information-Billetterie (L9) is the Information and Ticket Office. 


Folly with posters of coming attractions


À nous les jeux! The Olympics will be in Paris in 2024.

Place de la Fontaine aux Lions-de-Nubie (Square of the Nubian Lions Fountain)




Fontaine aux Lions-de-Nubie

At the main entrance to Parc de la Villette is the Fontaine aux Lions-de-Nubie, created in 1811 and transferred to its present location from Place de République. The “Lions of Nubia” were so-named because the water-spouting lion sculptures looked like sphinxes from Nubia (now Southern Egypt). 

The square on which the fountain is located is delineated by the Conservatoire National  Supérieur de Musique et de Danse de Paris, the Théâtre Paris-Villette, the Grande Halle de la Villette, Pavillon Paul Delouvier,  Cité de la Musique and the Philharmonie.


Conservatoire National  Supérieur de Musique et de Danse de Paris 

The Conservatory for Music and Dance was founded in 1795 and installed in its present location in 1990.  It is a highly competitive school that offers professional training in music, dance and sound technology. The walkway with the unusual wavy canopy, called the Galerie de la Villette, starts at the Information/Ticket Office and continues throughout the park. This structure made it simple to navigate the park.


Folie Théâtre Paris-Villette (L8) serves as the entrance to the Théâtre Paris-Villette.


Théâtre Paris-Villette and a continuation of the wavy canopy structure

This late 19th-century neoclassical building was the leather trading hall in the days of the cattle market. Now, the space is a venue for contemporary dramas written by up-and-coming young dramatists and hosts artists in residence.


The Pavillon Paul Delouvier was named after the photographer who died in 1996 and offers temporary exhibitions. It has an area of over 1000 sq ft equipped for kids and families and offers workshops about nature, the circus, magic, photography and cooking, among other things. 


Unique entrance to  Pavillon Paul Delouvrier


 Folie Little Villette (L7) The mini-folly is situated in an area devoted to children’s activities.


Grande Halle de la Villette

Behind the fountain is the Grande Halle de la Villette, a historical cast-iron & glass structure of spacious dimensions. It is the former cattle market or Halle aux Boeufs. It faces the Fontaine aux Lions de Nubie, a fountain that once served as an animal watering trough for the cattle. The Grande Halle de la Villette was inaugurated in 1867 and remained in use until March 17, 1974, when the slaughterhouses were closed. The cattle market was held twice a week, on Mondays and Thursdays. The other two market halls, Halle aux Moutons (sheep) and Halles aux Veaux (calves and pigs), were located on either side of the Halle aux Boeufs. 

The Grand Hall was converted into a multi-purpose venue that accommodates temporary exhibitions dedicated to foreign cultures, urban art, entertainment and trade shows, as well as an information center, a library and a restaurant.


An auditorium in the Grand Hall dedicated to Boris Vian, a multi-talented French author. This is a length-wise view of the Grand Hall. The wavy canopy is overhead.


To the right of the Fountain, you can see the entrance to the Cité de la Musique and the roof of the Philharmonie de Paris.

Café des Concerts

Cafe des Concerts is situated by the Cité de la Musique and overlooks the Fontaine aux Lions de  Nubie. There is a wide variety of different cuisines. Also, the restaurant serves “concept dishes,” in cast iron casserole dishes and placed in the center of the table, so everyone can serve themselves with the amount they want.


Entrance to Cité de la Musique


The Philharmonie de Paris is dedicated to all styles of music, and consists of two sections. The Philharmonie 1, inaugurated  on January 14, 2015, includes the Grande Salle, an auditorium with a capacity of 2400 seats. It is composed of concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms, educational services, restaurants and bars. 

The Cité de la Musique (City of Music), also known as Philharmonie 2, consists of an amphitheater, a concert hall that can accommodate an audience of 800–1,000, a music museum containing an important collection of classical music instruments dating mainly from the fifteenth- to twentieth-century, a music library, exhibition halls and workshops. In 2015 it was renamed Philharmonie 2 when a larger symphony hall was built by Jean Nouvel and named Philharmonie 1.

Themed Gardens



Le Jardin des Miroirs (The Garden of Mirrors), 

This garden, one of ten themed gardens, contains 28 free-standing 6 ½’ high mirrors set among woodland pines and maple trees. This pic shows only one side of the monoliths, which aren’t the mirror sides. You might think, from this angle, that you have wandered into a cemetery with large, dark headstones. 


 On further discovery, you find out that the back of each one is mirrored, reflecting the trees and oneself in the mirrored surfaces.


This is me, reflected in a mirror while taking a pic in the Garden of Mirrors. It is a very unusual-looking garden, but it was fascinating as well because I have never seen anything quite like it. And true to the architect Tschumi’s plan, it was a discovery of sorts.



La Folie des Vents et dunes (Wind Garden and Dunes - L 6)



The Garden of Wind and Dunes offers a rolling landscape, pedal windmills and air-cushioned areas for children. This garden was mostly deserted. In order to make the windmill go round, the kid has to pedal like mad, which may be the reason there were not many takers.


Folly My Boat (L5)

The restaurant has unusual decor inspired by the 1930s and made to resemble a luxury cruise liner. 


The wavy canopy walkway, nearing the canal,  and carousels

The Canal de l’Ourcq



La Folie Rond-Point des Canaux (J5) is located at the junction of the Canal Saint-Denis and Canal de l’Ourcq.


Canal de l’Ourcq with  boats

The Ourcq Canal runs through the middle of Parc de la Villette. The Canal de l’Ourcq was constructed in the 1800s to provide additional water to the city, along with additional cargo shipping channels. Even though most of the canal traffic is from pleasure craft nowadays, the Canal de l’Ourcq still supplies non potable water to the city of Paris for such uses as cleaning the sewers and providing water to the parks and gardens in Paris.


Canal & small boat


Folie Numerique  (Digital Art - N5) and Ateliers Villette (P5)


Canal boat     
The Canal Saint-Martin is a 4.6 km long canal in Paris, connecting the Canal de l'Ourcq to the river Seine. You can take a 2 ½ hour cruise from Place de la Bastille,  through four double locks and two swing bridges, to arrive at the Parc de la Villette. 


My Boat restaurant,  canal boat & walkway across the Canal de l’Ourcq


Walkway over canal


Folie Kiosque à Musique, opposite the Science Museum, is a venue for outdoor concerts in the summer.


Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

The Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, the largest science museum in Europe,  offers temporary and permanent exhibitions relating to all types of sciences. It offers also workshops for children, teenagers and adults, and guided tours dedicated to math, technology or space in the planetarium.


 Geode

The Geode is a movie theater with a 360˚ screen on which viewers can enjoy 3D movies. They can also listen to high definition broadcasts of live concerts from around the world.

The walkway leads from the Science Museum to the Geode.


The shiny surface of the Geode consists of 6,433 equilateral, spherical triangles made of polished steel that reflect the light. Its diameter is 36 meters (118 feet). Near the bottom of the Geode is  the reflection of the Science Museum.


The Argonaut

The Argonaut is a decommissioned submarine turned museum.  Built in the Cherbourg Naval Port in Normandy, she was officially inaugurated under the name Argonaute on February 24, 1954. The flagship of the French Navy in the 1950s, the Argonaut has been around the world 10 times.


Folie Argonaute (P4) accesses the decommissioned submarine Argonaute located in front of the Science Museum. An audio-guided tour will take you from the cockpit to the torpedo tube. It will offer an insight into the the daily lives of the 40-man crew, as well as the history and techniques of underwater warfare.


The Geode, the submarine Argonaut and the Argonaut Folly


The Geode in front of the  Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie


Folie Escalier (Stairway Folly - R4) is catty-corner to the Science Museum. It was originally meant to be an observatory with two flights of stairs. It kept its name but not its stairs.


 Le Jardin du Dragon (The Garden of the Dragon) is home to a large sculptural steel dragon that has an 80 ft slide for children to play on.


The Garden of the Dragon is located close to the Science Museum and the Geode, near the bridge which crosses the Canal de l’Ourcq.


The Dragon is entirely metallic and  painted in rainbow colors. 


Children are propelled out of its mouth through a closed tube, so there are no worries of anyone falling out.


This park was a redevelopment project for the 19th arrondissement, an ethnically and economically diverse part of northeastern Paris.  In 1982-3, the Parc de la Villette competition was organized to redevelop the abandoned land from the meat market and slaughterhouses that dated back to 1860. The architect, Bernard Tschumi, won a competition to create a park for the 21st century. 

According to Tschumi, a French architect of Swiss origin, Parc de la Villette was not meant to be a picturesque park reminiscent of centuries past; it was more of an open expanse that was meant to be explored and discovered by those that visited the site. The series of follies, serving as points of reference, were meant to give a sense of organization to the park. 

After visiting the park, I don’t think visitors realize the basic mathematical design of the park nor do they consciously realize there is an organizational plan to the distribution of follies. There are many reasons to recommend this park--exhibits at the science museum, movies at the Geode, concerts at the Philharmonie, trade shows at the Grand Hall-- but not because of its sheer beauty. The park was controversial to start with and still stirs controversy because it  differs from the traditional French park. Parc de la Villette may not be picturesque, but it offers visitors a landscaped urban space with diverse uses and interests that appeal to both children and adults.







Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Delacroix at the Louvre

The Louvre Museum hosted a tribute to the genius of Eugène Delacroix from March 29 to July 23, 2018.  (The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York will host the exhibit from September 17 to January 6, 2019.) The massive retrospective of Eugène Delacroix brought  together 180 works from every stage of his career.


Delacroix exhibit banners outside the Louvre Museum


Spiral stairway down to the lower level underneath the pyramid


Lower level of the Louvre 

On the column is the artwork of Kohei Nawa, “Throne,” entirely covered with gold leaf.  Nawa’s inspiration was from the  shapes and origins of floats used in Eastern religious festivals.


A closer look at “Throne,” a temporary exhibit at the Louvre


“Throne” is displayed as part of the Japonisms 2018: souls in harmony cultural season at the Louvre.


Mural on the way to the Delacroix exhibit


Ticket office and gift shop for the Delacroix exhibit

Eugène Delacroix (1798-1863) was a French artist regarded as the leader of  the French Romantic movement, which glorified individualism, imagination, and emotions. Romanticism was a reaction against the order and restraint of classical Greek and Roman art. Delacroix created epic interpretations of scenes from literature, mythology, religion, politics and history, all the while using extraordinary colors and focusing on movement,  dramatic conflicts, and sometimes even violence. 



Delacroix self-portrait   


Liberty Leading the People (1830, 8 ½’ high x 10 ½’ wide--think about the size!) 

Delacroix's best-known painting, Liberty Leading the People, is an  image of Parisians who have taken up arms and marched under the banner of the tricolor representing liberty, equality, and fraternity. The 1830 revolution against Charles X only brought a different king, Louis-Philippe, to power. The citizen-soldiers lying dead in the foreground offer a stark contrast to “Marianne,” the  symbolic female figure of France,  who has the French flag in one hand and a bayonet in the other.


Detail from Liberty Leading the People

Although the French government bought the painting, officials deemed its glorification of liberty too inflammatory and removed it from public view. It was finally put on display by the newly elected President, Louis Napoleon (Napoleon III).



Massacre at Chios (1824, 13.6’ H x 11 ½’ W--another wall-size painting)

The Massacre at Chios portrays the destruction and despair in the Greek fight for independence from Turkey. It is a grim portrayal of the massacre of 20,000 civilians on the Island of Chios by Ottoman soldiers in April of 1822. (FYI: Chios is the 5th largest of the Greek Islands)


Detail of Massacre at Chios


Detail of Massacre at Chios


Greece on the Ruins of Missolonghi (1826, 17 ½’ H x 12.2”W) 
“Greece” is depicted as a kneeling woman who is wearing a traditional Greek costume. She spreads her arms as a sign of sadness. This painting was inspired by the Third Siege of Missolonghi by Turkish troops in 1826, during which many people of the city, after the long-time siege (almost a year),  attempted a mass breakout to escape famine and epidemics. The attempt resulted in a disaster, with most of the Greeks slain. Delacroix, like many European artists and intellectuals, was a fervent supporter of the Greek cause.


Horse Frightened by the Storm (1824)

A horse frightened by the lightning rears up in a storm. Delacroix’s use of color and  brush strokes convey the reaction of the panic-stricken horse.


A Young Tiger Playing with its Mother (1830)


Roaring Lion’s Head (1833-35)


The Death of Sardanapalus (1827 was the original. This is the 1844 version.)


Sardanapalus was a legendary king of Assyria who ordered a sacrificial pyre to be built to atone for the shame of a military defeat. After ordering the massacre of all his women, slaves, and horses, he broods, emotionless, among his intended victims. Around him, his naked slaves are being murdered, and his possessions are being destroyed. At last, he will be burned to death on the pyre. It takes a minute to make sense of the chaos of this painting. You see the king and his mistress, unconscious on the bed, the black slave pulling at the white horse on the left, the naked woman being stabbed by the man on the right. Despite the powerful colors and drama of the scene, it was not well received by critics because it went against neoclassical traditions. 


Detail of The Death of Sardanapalus


Nude Woman on Divan (1830)


Reclining Woman with a Parrot (1827) 


Nude Seated (Mlle Rose - 1824)


The Battle of Nancy (1828-1833, 7 ¾’ H x 11.4’ W)

The Battle of Nancy was the result of the first official commission the artist ever received, in September, 1828. The battle was fought outside the walls of Nancy on January 5, 1477, by Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, against René II, Duke of Lorraine, and the Swiss Confederacy. René's forces won the battle, and Charles' mutilated body was found three days later. Delacroix’s battle scene, carefully researched by the artist,  is tumultuous and violent. Charles the Bold disappears into the frame of the picture at the far left, much as he disappeared from the political scene. 



Detail of The Battle of Nancy - Charles the Bold (L) and a Swiss knight


Detail of The Battle of Nancy 




The Moroccan  Woman (1821-24)


Young Orphan Girl in the Cemetery (1824)

The Young Orphan Girl  features the image of a young girl looking upwards toward the sky with tear-filled eyes. She appears to be all alone in the world and possibly searching for someone to help her in her time of need. 


Combat of the Giaour and Pasha Hassan (1826)

Oriental and exotic subjects of early 19th century authors inspired Romantic painters. From a poem by Lord Byron, the painting portrays a duel between the Giaour (non-Muslim) and the Turkish Pasha Hassan.


Detail of Combat of the Giaour and Pasha Hassan 
  
Delacroix had always had an attraction for the East. In 1832,  when Count Charles de Mornay, a French diplomat,  offered him the opportunity to go on a diplomatic mission for 6 months to North Africa to take part in the visit to Sultan Moulay Abd Al-Rahman, he agreed. The trip had a lifelong effect on Delacroix and gave him an inexhaustible source of sketches and lasting inspiration for his work. The most immediate result was Women of Algiers in Their Apartment. 


Women of Algiers in Their Apartment ( 1834, 5.9’ H x 7.5’W) 

Delacroix's first version of Women of Algiers was painted in Paris in 1834. In Algiers, Delacroix paid a secret visit to a harem. The authenticity of the accessories, attitudes, costumes, decoration, and atmosphere—all sketched and noted during the painter’s visit-- made this the first masterpiece as a result of his journey to North Africa.  


Detail of Women of Algiers in Their Apartment 



Women of Algiers in Their Apartment (1849)

The second work was painted fifteen years later, between 1847 and 1849. The two works both depict the same scene of four women together in an enclosed room. Despite the similar setting, the earlier painting separates the women from the viewer, and the second painting draws the viewer into the scene by means of the sultry look and posture of the woman in the foreground. 


Detail of Women of Algiers in Their Apartment 


A Jewish Wedding in Morocco (1841)

During his trip, Delacroix was invited into Jewish households to sketch. His journal recounts in detail the clothing, interior décor, and festivities of the Jewish households. From these he later painted Jewish Wedding in Morocco.


Detail of A Jewish Wedding in Morocco 


Still Life with a Lobster (1830)


Medea (1838)

This painting refers to a mythical character from Greek legend. Medea, abandoned and betrayed by Jason, wreaks terrible vengeance by slaughtering their children. The subject is taken from Euripides' tragedy, Medea.


Shipwreck of Don Juan (1840)

Delacroix was inspired to create this painting by Lord Byron’s poem, “Don Juan” in which survivors of a shipwreck draw lots to decide who must sacrifice his life to feed the others.

Detail of Shipwreck of  Don Juan
The deadly lottery is taking place. 


Cleopatra and the Peasant (1839)

Shakespeare’s “The Tragedy of Antony and Cleopatra” inspired this painting. Cleopatra, captured by the Romans, faces humiliation, degradation, and belittlement as she sits in her chamber. Her love, Antony, has fallen at the hand of Caesar, while she waits captive. The peasant has brought Cleopatra a basket of figs and fruit among which there is a small but deadly snake. She ponders death over a life of humiliation while the peasant offers her a simplistic solution. Roman historian Plutarch wrote that Cleopatra preceded her suicide by bathing and then having a fine meal including figs, brought to her in a basket.

There was an increase in Christian themes in the final period of Delacroix's career. "I was much impressed by the Requiem Mass," he wrote in his Journal (Nov. 2, 1854). "I thought of all that religion has to offer the imagination, and at the same time of its appeal to man's deepest feelings.



Christ at the Column (1849) 


Christ on the Cross (1853)


Detail of Christ on the Cross 


The Entombment of Christ (1848)


Detail of The Entombment of Christ 

In the last 10 or 12 years of his life Delacroix showed a renewed interest in the North African subjects of his Moroccan experience of 1832, including scenes of tiger and lion hunts, created both from imagination and from direct observation of animal behavior. Delacroix painted a number of Lion Hunt scenes between 1854 and 1861. These scenes represented three of Delacroix’s major themes: Orientalism, hunting and animal representation.


Lion Hunt (1854, 1.8’H x 2.4’ W) -  Painted Sketch 

The sketch Lion Hunt was done in preparation for a large painting in Bordeaux. The use of wild, explosive colors has been considered an anticipation of Fauvism.


Lion Hunt (1854) - Painted Sketch

The hunters and lions are in a violent struggle to the death. If it weren’t for this sketch, we would not be able to imagine the large scale, finished painting.


Lion Hunt (1855) 

This painting looks like an incomprehensible mess if viewed as a stand-alone painting. It isn’t a complete painting.  It is the remaining vestige of the Lion Hunt, severely damaged by fire in the Bordeaux Museum in 1870. It represents probably one half to two thirds of the original painting. This remnant measures 5 ½’ H x 12’ W, which means the finished original would have been another of Delacroix’s massive paintings. 


Roaring lion - Detail of Lion Hunt - 1855 


Turbaned fellow & horse - Detail of Lion Hunt - 1855


Terrified horse - Detail of Lion Hunt - 1855


Lion clinging to the horse’s flank - Detail of Lion Hunt - 1855